2 cylinder and the exhaust valves on the No. 1 cylinder, then the intake valves on the No. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the selective shim on the intake and exhaust valves on the No.If not, turn the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the marks again. 1 cylinder are loose and the rockers on the No. The notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the 0 degrees mark on the timing gear case. 1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke. Remove the cylinder head or valve cover.FSM so you know the special steps just for this engine. When rebuilding engines, its best to read the factory service manual first. The lash on valves must be checked, and this is corrected with SHIMS.Ī pro machine shop does the for you,did they:? Then makes sure the valves are ready for long service.ĭid you use sealant on the 3 cap caps, per the FSM book. Who did your valves, a real machine shop or kid down the street.Ī read shop pressure tests the head ,and warp checks it and When did the engine last run, last week,month, year,? If yes, the we check spark next, then try test fuel. We use the cylinder leak down test in all DOHC. So does compression exceed 150psi on all 4 cylinders now? My guess is you drove the this 4EX1 engine until the cam belt slipped. The car is really an Isuzu Impulse minus some of that car's more expensive features. right last question this one iam off to cultivate the garden and relay my irrigation pipesĩ0 Storm, must be in Canada, 1,6 (the comma tells me this) Sorry i just do so many makes of vehicle i cannot remember them all i just use my 6 yrs or motor vehicle technicians course ,although its all out of date now the basics are still the same and i apply this basic to any vehicle and it always works. If your car is in their shop, get it out, ASAP.Please forgive me but as iam getting older my memory isnt what it was but i seem to remember two slots in the back of the cam but it could be a mark on the rear cam cap,if not sure here then do it with no timing marks - its easy make sure no1 piston is down halfway so valves clear pistons then look at the cams and start with the inlet no1 which should be just closed and the cam lobe moving away from the tappet ,and now the exhaust will be coming around to make contact with the tappet ,then look on the cam /cam caps keyway or whatever for anything resembling the timing marks.Please reply to me with a full list of symptoms, the results of your tests and any other details on whatever you may consider pertinent. Sorry about the sarcasm, but how would you know that it was new? It's a LOT cheaper than a new (yeah right) engine. It's unlikely anyone trying to sell you a $7,000.00 engine based on what you've described is looking out for interests other than their own.Īsk around, friends of friends, find someone trustyworthy. If it was, I'd be replacing the head gasket, not the engine. I'm not convinced yet that this is your problem. You don't replace an engine because of a known blown head gasket. I don't like to speak ill of someone I've never met, but from what you've posted, something smells fishy. Since you are trying to get rid of the car, it's less likely a different 'Problem' will appear -), Get it? We want straight answers.
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